this is a picture of the distribution terminal for the ps3 pro pcb. the ground for the start and select are separated from the ground for the rest of the buttons. i think cutting the ground trace connecting from the turbo might fix the problem but i never bothered much with it. after 2 hours of troubleshooting i just gave up and replaced it with a TE2 ps3 pcb

You could have just pulled the white harness connectors off the board and soldered a thin wire from the two ground points to connect them and then put the connector back on. Maybe.

I hope noob questions are accepted here, if not, sorry. I just started trying to change the stock Sanwa buttons for the HBSF-30 G2 buttons I got a while ago on my MLG TE but couldn’t get the top open (No hexwrenchs were the right size) so I opened it from the back. Inside, I found a plastic wall with a lot of screw and what appears to be red glue. What I’m wondering is, is it worth it to unscrew the entire thing and take it out, or should I just try and change the the buttons through it? Again, deeply sorry if this is the the noobiest question on here, or if this should be common knowledge, I just hadn’t seen this before on Tech Talk, maybe because not many people open it from the back or something? Anyway, thank you for the help.

No. Buy a metric allen wrench set and do it from the top.

That’s probably a good idea. Alright thanks.

If money is tight, try a pawn shop.

I have a question on how to make a harness with braided sleeving using a daisy-chained ground connection.

I plan on creating my own harness with the shielding a lot of people use. Is there a clean way to use a daisy chained grounds in the harness. From what I see a lot of the pro-built stuff only have two wires for each button coming out of the harness(one for ground, one for signal), wouldn’t a daisy chain show three wires going to each button from the sleeve?

What’s the best way to go about this?

You need to have a signal wire and a ground connection for each button running through the techflex. The daisy chained ground would be all you need for ground so only 2 wires would come out for each button. Feed the daisy chain into the flex and make a small cut to allow each QD to come through. Then cut your signal wire for each button and feed it back through the hole that you cut for the ground wire starting with the button furthest from the PCB. Fold the end of the wire back when feeding so the end doesn’t snag. Use heat shrink over the cut holes and at the end of the flex on the PCB side and the opening on the end where your last button wires will exit the flex. This is the cleanest way to wire because you only have one or two ground wires going into the PCB depending on the layout that you choose for your wiring.

see how this guy daisy chained his?

I was just wondering how many grounds these other guys use because from the look of their flex they seem to use a separate dedicated ground wire for each individual button while sharing the flex, which made me wonder how they did that with only 3 ground slots and 8 buttons to ground on the ps360+.

I’ll figure it out though, thanks.

Any one know which resistors i need to remove in order to get an injustice stick to play nicely when dual modding?
Ive a ps3 injustice stick.

Thanks in advance.

No. It’s a daisy chain. You can see that each ground has one wire going to it and then back into the harness and to the next button in the chain. Only 5 wires exit the flex into the PCB for each set of buttons.

Edit: If I was this person, I would have run the joystick harness into the same flex that he used for Start/Select/Home. It would have been much cleaner IMO. That joystick harness is stretched tight to the 5 pin connector. Me no likey.

Right, I get what you’re saying there. I can definitely see the second ground wire going back into the flex as I mentioned.

But what I’m trying to say is these other mods don’t look like that one does. I only see two total wires coming out of the flex for each button. Im just really confused as to how they are all being grounded. for example, the pic below.

https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t31.0-8/1796977_618387021548050_886188648_o.jpg

That does not look like a daisy chain ground setup to me at all, nothing like the first pic I posted. What kind of ground wiring does this stick use?

They are, more than likely, simply chained differently. One wire running through the flex with wires with QD’s soldered to the central ground wire. Why crimp when you can solder, right? Haha.

Anyone mod the MadCatz Wii U TE-S stick? I picked it up recently since it was $50 and it seemed like a good deal for Sanwa stick+buttons and TE-S shell. But I’m wondering how I can utilize the home and turbo buttons? I wanna make it usable with the PS360+ pcb.

Ever since I swapped out my stock TE buttons I’ve had a inconsistent issue where my Roundhouse and 8th button will completely die out in the middle of a session until I unplug and replug my stick back in. Any one hear of this issue?

I did (at $80, $50 is even more of a steal)- first with a Cthulhu, then with a PS360+. The PS360+ has the option to use start + select/back as home. Alternately, you could solder a wire to the home button contact/lead. If you don’t care about Wii/Wii U support, installation will be super easy with a few parts and tools. Not difficult to dual mod and keep the Wii compatibility, but a bit more work.

I don’t think there’s a way you can use the turbo buttons with the PS360+. Shouldn’t need a turbo button with 30mm Sanwa buttons anyways, you can tap with two fingers on one of them.

Get a ls33 and a mini ball top. Akihabarashop.jp has them in stock (and I have 1 extra I’m willing to part with but that’s another subject)

Hey all. Sorry for the dumb question; I’m new to stick modding and the amount of information is overwhelming.

I want to use my Tournament Edition (the original 360 version) with my PS3. What is the cheapest way to go about dual-modding this stick? Can I get away with only using a Cthulhu PCB?

Sort of, you still need either a Imp board or a DPDT switch.
If you go for the DPDT switch you still have to drill a hole some where to allow for your switch.

Boards like the Chimp or the Cerberus do not need a Imp or DPDT switch as they have there own autodetect.

You don’t need either if you leave the original cable for 360 and run a separate line for the cthulhu, a usb pass through will keep you from having two cables dangling it at all times. In any case, dpdt or imp is a neater solution.