Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Fr0st_Blade · 2013-06-14T03:04:38.000Z

gahrling:

SmokeMaxX:

but nobody’s reported any problems with the newer PCB unlike the older TEs

Yes they have, one of them being me.

The PS3 TE-S motherboards have a lower problem rate than the TE ver.B boards but are still not quite perfect. Strange considering that Toodles made a PS3 board by himself that still works flawlessly on PC. I have no idea why MadCatz or some other company didn’t hire him from the get go.

Well there you go. My bad. Is it your board?

ExtremeYoshiFan · 2013-06-14T03:35:20.000Z

Really dumb question of the day. Do I need to do anything after I remove the rumble motors, or can I leave the connection open?

Icy_Black_Deep · 2013-06-14T04:22:55.000Z

tsipsi:

if i dont cut out the advanced face in the cerberus partial connector version would that double(or triple) points to solder to (pins in connectors, holes where connectors would be on full version, and advanced face)?

I think Darksaul read this backwards. In which case you seem to have it right: if you don’t do any cutting the pads on the “inner” face, the connectors for “outgoing” and the connectors for the TE PCB are all electrically continuous so you’d have three places for fairly easy soldering. (Easier if you desolder the connectors, but that’s harder. May be tricky if you want to solder and still plug into the connector, but I think that should be doable.)

blackraen · 2013-06-14T05:04:01.000Z

ExtremeYoshiFan:

Really dumb question of the day. Do I need to do anything after I remove the rumble motors, or can I leave the connection open?

You can leave the connections open. Just make sure the points are clean and don’t have any chance of making any shorts.

deBoru · 2013-06-14T05:04:21.000Z

What is the best option for a really clean looking RGB LED setup (PCB and LEDs)?

I’m using a PS360+ board in my stick and Seimitsu screw-in buttons. The top panel will be transparent so I don’t want a bird’s nest.

HayTux · 2013-06-14T05:22:03.000Z

How would you wire up the player LEDs on a PS360+? I’m thinking of buying an SE case and it still has the turbo panel. I know I’d need a JST harness, but which harness do I plug it into?

deBoru · 2013-06-14T05:30:41.000Z

HayTux:

How would you wire up the player LEDs on a PS360+? I’m thinking of buying an SE case and it still has the turbo panel. I know I’d need a JST harness, but which harness do I plug it into?

@HayTux

It shows you on page 3 of the Hardware overview guide found here: http://beckfolio.com/focusattack/akishop/docs/PS360HardwareOverview.pdf

If you are soldering to an existing turbo panel you’ll pretty much just find the solder points for the LEDs and wire up to those.

gahrling · 2013-06-14T05:52:56.000Z

SmokeMaxX:

Is it your board?

I’ve never owned a PS3 stick with a TE-S motherboard but I have modded a lot and it’s damn annoying when I can’t test out the things on my computer.

Omex · 2013-06-14T07:19:19.000Z

Are there any factors that could cause my microswitches to die faster than usual, barring general wear and tear?

Context: I’ve been using a standard TE I got back in 2009, modded/repaired throughout the years (dualmod, not familiar with what board, plexiglass, new usb cord because the old one was shorting out, double spring, quickrelease jlf installed at ufgt9) and in particular, I’ve had the microswitches die a few times on me. First, the ‘back’ switch back in 2010 (soldered on a new one), the ‘up’ switch (if i remember correctly) back in early 2012, and late in 2012 my back switch died again, which lead me to order a whole new microswitch board off of the advice of the awsum guy who runs rabidduckie mods (right? something like that!) Since then, everything’s been groovy, but as of the last week it looks like the back microswitch is dying -again-. Symptoms have always been the same, sometimes if I go to block downback it won’t actually let me block, only giving me the down input, and if i slowly move the switch between down and back it’ll give me like 6 down/downback/down/downback inputs all at the same time. First time it happened (2009) it was verified with a multimeter, rest of the time I haven’t been able to test since I don’t actually own one, but symptoms have always been consistent.

Normal wear and tear issues, or does it sound like I’m doing something wrong? :\

Darksakul · 2013-06-14T08:51:41.000Z

Omex:

Are there any factors that could cause my microswitches to die faster than usual, barring general wear and tear?

Environment. And Upkeep.
How warm and humid your home is?
Is your stick in constant direct sunlight?
How clean your hands are before you play?
I seen some poorly keep sticks that look very grimy, nasty and beat up all form the owner taking poor care of a stick.
I am not saying you are disgusting but it is a factor in part life.
Play Style
Not everyone handel ther stick with kid gloves when they play.
Some people have a feather touch and others have what I dub “HAPP HANDS” and some people are just the Incredible Hulk.
Manufacturer Error/fault
Even with the best of Manufacturers, occasionally there will be a bad batch. And this goes with EVERYTHING thats get mass production.
The batch of switches could be faulty or flawed or you could get slipped accidentally the wrong kind of Microswitch.
They might be all Omron switches, but you could for some blind luck get the wrong kind (unlikely) or with a mistake on the assembly line a batch of lets say 25 switches were done wrong because the assembly line worker got drowsy or something.

This vary for different people. Some people there microswitches last them 20+ years and others last months. Its based on how hard you play and how often you play on your gear.

Omex · 2013-06-14T18:18:42.000Z

Darksakul:

Omex:

Are there any factors that could cause my microswitches to die faster than usual, barring general wear and tear?

Environment. And Upkeep.
How warm and humid your home is?
How clean your hands are before you play?

These’re probably the factors, if anything. My home’s fine in the winter, but I’m not allowed AC or anything else due to my lease, so that’s a factor during the summer (not sure on humidity, depends on the year), and I’m prone to sweaty hands, though that’s more often after i start playing. What would you advise then, order new microswitches and keep a little hand towel around while I play? And how does the heat come into play?

deBoru · 2013-06-14T21:37:29.000Z

If I purchase a Crown CWJ-303A is there any way to replace the battop with a balltop?

Darksakul · 2013-06-15T02:22:07.000Z

Omex:

Darksakul:

Omex:

Are there any factors that could cause my microswitches to die faster than usual, barring general wear and tear?

Environment. And Upkeep.
How warm and humid your home is?
How clean your hands are before you play?

These’re probably the factors, if anything. My home’s fine in the winter, but I’m not allowed AC or anything else due to my lease, so that’s a factor during the summer (not sure on humidity, depends on the year), and I’m prone to sweaty hands, though that’s more often after i start playing. What would you advise then, order new microswitches and keep a little hand towel around while I play? And how does the heat come into play?

Just wash your hands often.

How Heat comes into play, well 80s 90s degree heat isn’t going to hurt much on its own, but some basic science here, heat does make objects expand.
And tightening fitting parts can wear out faster.

MvCShoryuken · 2013-06-16T02:05:28.000Z

http://www.amazon.ca/Hori-HP3-59U-PS3-Fighting-Stick/dp/B0057WDBHA/ref=tag_stp_s2_edpp_url Y’all think that’s worth the 60 bucks or should i get this http://ncix.com/products/?sku=76501&promoid=1111

Fr0st_Blade · 2013-06-16T03:00:54.000Z

Second option is FAR better. Canada has some terrible options though, in terms of price.

MvCShoryuken · 2013-06-16T03:47:54.000Z

SmokeMaxX:

Second option is FAR better. Canada has some terrible options though, in terms of price.

Yeah man Canada gets like no fight sticks and if they do they are fuckin 160 or higher, the great TE rush of 2009 will be in the history books

Darksakul · 2013-06-16T08:33:16.000Z

MvCShoryuken:

SmokeMaxX:

Second option is FAR better. Canada has some terrible options though, in terms of price.

Yeah man Canada gets like no fight sticks and if they do they are fuckin 160 or higher, the great TE rush of 2009 will be in the history books

For the most part ignoring sales and Promos $160 is within the expected price range in the US for arcade sticks as well.

MochiFtw · 2013-06-17T02:51:41.000Z

Darksakul:

MochiFtw:

My fight stick as being really weird. The up forward, forward, and down forward (P1 side) isn’t always being read. I had my stick repaired a while ago by getting a new PCB and having it adjusted and it was working fine until now. Any ideas on what’s wrong and/or how to fix it?

Double check to make sure its not your execution.

I hold 6 and my stick doesn’t respond, after a few seconds my character would move forward. The same is with 9 and 3. So I’m not to sure what is wrong with it. >,.,<
at is

MvCShoryuken · 2013-06-18T00:37:43.000Z

Well it seems the Pro sticks are 99 bucks flat on the gameshark store, the price hasn’t changed for a month now, but i don’t need one of those because i have like 2 TE’s and i want a hori

Darksakul:

MvCShoryuken:

SmokeMaxX:

Second option is FAR better. Canada has some terrible options though, in terms of price.

Yeah man Canada gets like no fight sticks and if they do they are fuckin 160 or higher, the great TE rush of 2009 will be in the history books

For the most part ignoring sales and Promos $160 is within the expected price range in the US for arcade sticks as well.

Iduno · 2013-06-18T00:49:49.000Z

So my PS3 Madcatz SE is still randomly turning all the buttons on turbo and refusing to turn them off until it’s been plugged into the PC, does anyone have any way to stop this from happening?