8822

So the door fell off my Q4RAF at the hinge. Is there any way to do add a Neutrik so I can have a detachable usb on the stock qanba pcb?

8823

It is called a 24mm holesaw (its a type of drill bit)

8824

What’s the best option to dual mod a 360 stick, both with solder and solderless? I have a Hori SCV stick if that helps.

8825

Also put tape so you dont accidentally crack the plastic.

8826

Either a Toodles Chimp or a PS360+
Toodles Chimp would require some minimum soldering to get wires from the Xbox 360 PCB to your Chimp Also the Chimp is cheaper
The alternative to soldering is using butt connectors or a terminal strip

The PS360+ would need some soldering for the USB cord, unless you ether replace the cord, or get the JST connector Kity and splice that into your exiting USB cord via terminal strip or butt connectors

8827

So I tried all of that and, despite it working in the Properties menu (the one that you supplied an image for), it doesn’t seem to want to work outside of it. Joy2Key won’t pick it up and neither with GGXX#R. I tried the drivers, too, but still nothing.

8828

I have the GoG version of #R under 32-bit Vista and a 360 round 2 TE.
#R does not like it; 2K seems to work as “ok” (start?) while 1P and 3K work for “back”, but that’s it; directions don’t work.
But if I plug it in and let the ChimpSMD show up everything works great.

8829

The Phreakmods Cerberus ps3/pc joystick pcb arrived today. Turns out it does not match the pcb in my stick. My stick is an Eightarc iso 360 onyx.

I want the stick to work on the ps3. I don’t care if it doesn’t work on the 360.

How can I use the stick on the ps3? Can I:

  1. Buy a ps3 pcb from a store like madcatz?
  2. Buy a 360 pcb similar to the cerberus pcb and dual mod the stick?
  3. Use the cerberus pcb by itself to make the stick work on the ps3?

Pics of both pcbs below. Eightarc is the first one. Cerberus is the second one. Thanks.

Spoiler

http://s18.postimg.org/i1taripex/Eightarc_Front.jpg

http://s7.postimg.org/3lrl5yixn/Eightarc_Back.jpg

Spoiler

http://s21.postimg.org/vtuc2dfp3/Picture_004.jpg

http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server500/d90a4/products/505/images/2329/cerebus_zoom5__41399.1350701024.1024.768.jpg

This is how the pcbs are supposed to look like if they match.

Spoiler

http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server500/d90a4/products/505/images/2303/cerebus4__15733.1349920399.1024.768.jpg

8830

The Cerberus was designed with some specific boards in mind. That said, it is still a perfectly workable PS3 PCB in itself. You also have a 360 PCB in your 8arc already.

The big trick for you now is to hook up your button signal wired to the Cerberus (and leave them connected to the 8arc’s PCB as well). As far as USB switching I’m not sure but I think that you should be able to use the Cerberus for your USB switcher if you follow the guide’s instructions for the USB cable.

Essentially you’re going to end up having to solder to the advance face pads on the button, but you already have everything you need to make it dual-mod so might as well go all the way.

8831

I just found out that my stick is non-common ground. How does this affect the dual modding?

8832

Quick question.

Just bought a monitor with a dvi-d and vga input. My xbox doesn’t have a HDMI port. Can I use two converters to have visual with no input delay without issues? (DVI-d male to DVI-I female then another converter DVI-I male to Componant) Would this work? Or would I be better of running off just trying to find a HDMI xbox to run dvi-d to HDMI?

Here’s the two converters
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DVI-D-24-1-Pin-Male-TO-DVI-I-24-5-Pin-Female-Converter-/170557544844?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item27b605998c

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400465400386?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

8833

If you checked out the first page of the Cerberus thread you notice that the Cerberus in its normal format is meant for Xbox 360 TE PCBs.

Now if you shop down the Cerberus like so

With some soldering skills you can install a cerus PCB like you would a chimp PCB

Here is a chopped down Cerberus board soldered to a Qanba Xbox 360 PCB. (Pics by mr.mortified)

Now if you get the PARTIAL CONNECTOR VERSION of the Cerberus http://www.focusattack.com/phreakmods-cerberus-ps3-pc-joystick-pcb-partial-connector-version/
You can hand solder the connectors or cut the board down and solder all the connections.

Here is an exaple of the Partial Connector Version not chopped down wired to a Hrap PCB.

I have installed a Cerberus in a SNES game pad and a Razer Stick

8834

You could get an official Microsoft 360 VGA cable. Be sure to get the official one. I have 3rd party ones and they ghost like hell.

8835

I want to avoid soldering as much as possible. I want to just plug in a few things and be able to play on the ps3. But that does not seem possible. So, is the Cerberus partial connector version the only/best pcb available that does not require me to solder my 8arc pcb? If there isn’t one, can’t I find a madcatz 360 pcb somewhere, buy some wires that work with the madcatz pcb, and connect it to the cerberus pcb that I own or buy an 8arc ps3 pcb?

Basically, I want soldering to be my last resort. If there really is no way to play on ps3 with my stick, then I’ll solder the stick.

Edit: If this helps, here is a pic of the inside of my stick.

Spoiler

http://s24.postimg.org/5tuwv41cl/Eightarc_Inside.jpg

8836

No it requires mad soldering. Take note of the photo.

For you the better options would be a Chimp or even a PS360+

They both have screw terminals for wiring, USB jacks for USB cables.

The Chimp needs to splice wires into your Xbox 360 PCB, you can go solderless if you provide either butt crimp connectors or a terminal strip

The PS360+ takes the role of both the PS3 and Xbox 360 PCBs.

8837

If I bought a Kraylix and wanted to buy the cheapest PCB that’s presoldered for a 360 (meaning already has wires with QDs and maybe a harness for the JLF), what’s my best option?
Should I just buy two Brawl sticks and take the PCBs out of them?

8838

The best purchase would be 2 PS360+ PCBs they are cheaper to about the same price as the Brawl stick PCBs and they are easier to wire up, no soldering required.

8839

Ok so I get this one? http://www.focusattack.com/toodles-cthulhu-multi-console-pcb/ [details=Spoiler]

http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server500/d90a4/products/205/images/1046/toodles_mcc__11863.1327022346.1024.768.jpg

[/details]

Then I use the wires that are inside my stick, remove the wires from the white pin connectors (don’t know what it’s called), connect each end of the wires to a butt crimp connector and plug each wire individually into the Cthulhu?

Is this the butt crimp connector you’re talking about?[details=Spoiler]

[/details]

This is my first time dealing with modding so im pretty confused with the whole process. I trying to learn how to do this correctly so I don’t ruin my stick later on.

8840

Those are the butt connector you want, stick with the red/pink color connectors

And you want this PCB for dual modding for a first timer, specially if you are keeping the Xbox 360 PCB.

You can order it direct from toodles instead of a middle man
http://godlikecontrols.com/

All you are doing, instead of soldering wires to the Xbox 360 PCB, you are cutting and splicing the original wiring with a new wire going to the chimp smd for the Buttons and joystick.
Protip: Do only 1 wire at a time.

You are cutting the USB cable from the Xbox 360 PCB leaving about 6 inches of USB cord so you can wire that to the Chimp, and your wire the other end of the USB cord going out to the chimp as well.
The Chimp comes with directions to follow, its about as easy as it can be made for your project as possible.

8841

I bought three sets of ultra touch(20g) zippy microswitches with harness for my JLF stick about two weeks ago. I got them yesterday and i tried to install them and everything was fine except when i tried to push on the corners. The microswitches didn’t reach far enough for them to activate the corners. I tested and compared the size of the original JLF microswithces and the Zippies. They were the same size so I didn’t really understand the problem. But than I saw that the Zippy has a longer travel for the microswitch to activate than the original JLF switches. This is the reason the corners aren’t being activated. So my question is: Are there any microswitches that have the same activating travel as the original JLF(Omron) microswitches and that is silent (with 20-75g)? If not than is there any tips on what I can do?