You are not going to on the Dreamcast unless someone made a dedicated server, then you would Game Shark/Action Replay Code Hack the new IP address in and you find the rare and pricey Dreamcast Ethernet modem or set up a PC as a dial up server to act as a bridge to the internet.

The Easy solution to get Marvel vs Capcom 1 on PSN or XBLA.

sounds like there is a short somewhere. A bit of loose wire or metal is making contact, causing the Always left issue to occur.

Double check to make sure its not your execution.

With some few exceptions (such as a dual-mod) most mods will devalue a stick. You get the most out of Resale by keeping the stick to close as stock as possible.
Since the Mad Catz SCV stick is already Full Sanwa, you are not going to get the value any higher by swapping buttons.

If you want to change the visual ascetics of a stick, as long as it means something to you, go for it. You are not going to get back what you paid for the stick even without sitting in its retail box which happens to be in mint condition.

@PlayDoh003 If you’re worried about reselling your sticks, and you have the space, it wouldn’t hurt to keep the parts you change.

Having said that, I gave my SCV sides and bezel to a friend who plans on using them. As @Darksakul says, you’re not going to get your money back (not with those sticks) so make the sticks you want to use! :slight_smile:

@Graymalkin @Darksakul Thanks, guys. I know that a used stick will never be worth what is was new (unless it’s one of those limited/numbered runs like the SFIV sticks I’ve seen), but I guess I was wondering if there’s value in keeping the original trim. I think I’ll just keep the parts, in case I want to revert the sticks back to their original looks someday. :slight_smile:

I’m having a great deal of trouble fitting the metal base back into a TE-S - it seems that one side or another does not want to go in, as the base is slightly bigger than the gap it’s supposed to fit.

Any tips on how to get it flush? Cheers!

Stick the metal base in the fridge or freezer for like 30 minutes. Pull it out and give the plastic a bit of heat from a hair drier. Not a lot, just get it warm to the touch. Should settle in nicely. Have that problem with my TEs after I’ve done some painting. Plastic can also shrink a little bit over time so the older your case the tighter the fit.

Makes sense - I’ll give that a try, thanks!

Looking forward to explaining to the Mrs why there’s a big piece of metal in the freezer! :slight_smile:

I have this exact same problem now and was just about to post about it.

Anyone got any ideas?

Anyone recommend quality cherry switches for buttons and a joystick?

Hey guys long time lurker first time poster here. I had a couple questions about the Tekken Tag Tournament 2 TE S plus for Ps3. It is my first stick and I just got it on sale which I feel was a great deal.

I have been looking through the custom artwork threads and am very interested in doing this in the future. A couple questions here

  1. Is the template for this stick the same as other TE’s or TE S (not +)
  2. The stick comes with an additional cover and I believe it already has the plexiglass I keep reading about that makes switching out artwork easier. Am I confused here or would I still need to get that plexi for my custom art?
  3. I am actually going to buy a printer in the near future and since I am going to be doing this might just get a really good printer. All my HP’s have crapped out on me and I hate them, with that in mind what kind of printers would work for custom artwork and what price we talking here?

Thank you so much for helping a noob such as me.

@Spitfire_Riggz

  1. I have a TTT2 stick for XBox360, and I can tell you for sure that it is indeed the same TE design. HOWEVER, keep in mind that this stick uses Namco’s “Noir” layout, so you have to make sure that your template matches the button layout. The template/button layout is the same as The SoulCalibur V stick, except that the arrangement of the buttons is different between the two. For a template, you can go to the Art’s Hobbies website and get the TE Noir template there(see Art’s thread for more details).

  2. The TTT2 stick does NOT have a plexi, sorry to say. It just appears to be a laminated art sheet that is glued to the metal panel. It comes with the alternate “femme fighters” art, but that is only meant to go over the existing artwork - you don’t even have to take the buttons off. Just remove the 6 screws (hex key included), place the overlay on top, and replace the screws. Having said that, it’s best to remove the stock art, then cover your new artwork with a plexi top.

  3. The guys dedicated to printing art have business class color Ink jet printers to do the job, and they have laser cutters to cut the holes to match the template. For the price, I don’t know that you can beat the pros like Art and a few of the others that provide the service. Of course, it never hurts to be able to print out proofs when working on your art though. I’ve ordered from Art before, and he uses card stock - I believe around 80 Lb. Now, I’m not saying that you can’t do it at home, but I honestly don’t think that you can beat the price that these guys offer. If you want to make a business out of it, then a business class machine is what you’ll want. I’d scope out your nearest FedEx Office and see what they use, then go from there.

Thank you so much!

Dangit he has the plexi and the artwork but he doesnt have the template for the Noir TTT2. He has it for the Soul Calibur one though is it the same?

@Spitfire_Riggz Yes - the SCV template is the Noir layout.

You guys rock thanks and yeah the prices are great Paying for a couple art cards to be done is better than buying a 3500$ printer lol

Edit: Is it possible to use a home color printer? Someone mentioned it but did not know if serious

Sure, with caveats:

  1. The size of the panel is (rounding up) ~8"x13", so the printer needs to be able to feed at least legal size paper (8.5"x14") with suitably small margins.
  2. It’s not necessary, but things will be a bit nicer if you print on cardstock. Some printers aren’t really designed for thicker paper, and ideally you want a printer that feeds the paper straight through the printer without bending it, as the bend can become rather permanent when working with cardstock.

Bottom line: As long as your printer can print a large enough area, you’ve got nothing to lose by giving it a try and seeing if you’re happy with the results.

Herro. I’ve played fighting games casually using a Hori V3 for a bit. However, my friend recently bought a Fighting Edge and the stick on it feels MUCH better than mine. His has grooves on the vertical and horizontal edges and is generally tighter and more stable than the one in my V3. Unfortunately, Hori doesn’t sell the parts for it (Hayabusa stick). What would be my best option for upgrading without buying a Fighting Edge myself? I’m probably going to sell my current stick to a friend and buy a better model, rather than modding my V3. From a little research, it seems like Seimitsu parts might be closer to the tightness I felt from his Fighting Edge. And while I liked the grooves on found on the Fighting Edge, I’ve never used an octagonal gate before and am not sure if it’s what I would want. Anyone have any advice?

Thanks again I found this thread which pretty much answers my questions hopefully someone will find it useful

Getting a home printer and spending a couple more bucks for the ability to print art was what I was hoping for since I need one anyways

You can buy those parts from someone in the Trading Outlet. I sold a set of Fighting Edge parts in there.

So I had my stick in a backpack where it got jammed. Got it back in place but now there’s a bulge in the metal plate and the stick leans ever so slightly to the left.


Dunno if it truly has an effect on performance but I’d like a fix, but dunno what options I have.

I’d like to invest on the link for the future but it wouldn’t help if it was still slanted left. Would I need a replacement top panel or maybe a smaller fix? Mvc2 TE btw.

Is there a thread for arcade stick mod tutorial cz I’m havin problem with inserting artwork here. yeah, kinda noob in Photoshop. http://iplaywinner.com/joystick-art-templates/2009/1/4/hori-real-arcade-pro-2-3-art-template.html

Anyone have the SCV/Noir/TTT2 TE S+ Layout in a png format to make it easy to work with?