Does the rj45 port that is built in to the ps360+ work with an rj45 to ps2 (or other specific console)? If so what is the point of ps360-jst-expansion-harnesses-3-pack I dont see the point of both usb, rj45, and rj45 4-pin harness, could someone elaborate?
Right now I am thinking I will run a short a rj45 cable from my pcb to a neutrik rj45 jack then run a console specific rj45 to the console, from 360 to ps2, all using that one port. Any flaws with how I am thinking of doing this?
Also, will .187″ connectors work with SEIMITSU PS14 KN 30MM SCREW BUTTONS?
Any recommendations on a crimper for .110 or .187 connectors?
And anyone know how to update a ps360+?
Yes, thats the idea.
Its just another option to wire up your stick. In some sticks space is a premium and there isn’t much room, the idea is you would splice the JST cables to your cable connectors going to your system. One cable out of the kit is for Player indicator lights. Keep in mind USB and Cat 5 cable can be bulky.
No, you will need .110
Any cheap $10 crimper will work. But if you want good crimpers, you be spending a good bit of cash,
Look for Ratcheting crimpers in the $35 and up range.
http://www.focusattack.com/akishop-ps360-multi-console-joystick-pcb/#docs
Great info as always, just top confirm: Right now I am thinking I will run a short a rj45 cable from my pcb to a neutrik rj45 jack then run a console specific rj45 to the console, from 360 to ps2, all using that one port. Any flaws with how I am thinking of doing this?
So really as long as I am using a rj45 to usb, I could do everything a a/b usb cable would do?
Only the flaws that are inherent with a RJ45 plug. And that you need a RJ45 Plug crimped to a USB cable.
Although redundant, I keep the USB port on one of my sticks I decided it needed a RJ45 passthrough.
Yes. All the RJ45 connector does is allow a total of 8 wires to be connected. This allows a maximum number of system cables to be connected without issue.
Yes some consoles such as the PS2 has 9 wires in its cable, but one wire is completely unused for our purposes.
What does this mean for USB, USB only has 4 wires in its cable, a RJ45 connector supports up to 8 so its no big deal.
There nothing about RJ45 connectors or Cat 5 cables that would hurt USB.
Keep in mind that RJ45 to USB cables that are made for sticks are completely different that Cat 5/Cat 6 to USB adapters used for USB extensions.
Alright, more interesting info. The a/b usb cable is just for convenience for people who dont have a rj45 to usb cable?
And I am now trying to update the ps360+ fw, but the issue I am having is that windows already recognized the ps360+ as a device: PS360+ v1.2. The official guide says it should be popping up as asomething else so that I can specify the atmel driver. I tried going into device manager and changing the ps360+'s driver but since it is recognized as a game controller it wont let me. If I just try to load up atmel FLIP as per the instructions I get this error: “AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found” Anyone know how to fix it?
Q. The a/b usb cable is just for convenience for people who don’t have a rj45 to usb cable?
A. Yep, pretty much. Not everyone cares for older Legacy consoles.
Need some help with an FGW. Got it wired up and it works fine, but the 3 and 4 Punch and Kick buttons are dimly lit when nothing is pressed. If anything is pressed and held the four buttons that are dimly lit turn off, but they return to the dim state when the buttons are released. I’m using 2 3mm LED’s per button with blue, green, yellow, then red for 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th punch and kick respectively. Can anyone help?
How are your resistors wired up? Also, if you move your LEDs around, or disconnect the 3 and 4 button LEDs, does the same thing happen?
anybody have the wiring diagram for madcatz vs stick? havent opened one up so not sure if it uses same pcb as others.
I’m using the on-board resistors that toodles provided, if i messed with the position of the LED’s they would not turn on and would go out of the dim state without lighting up on press. What should I disconnect from the LEDs?
Hey everyone i have a simple question, why wont my xbox mic work when i connect it to my xbox hori soul calibur V arcade stick ?
Does your Mic work with other Xbox controllers?
Also make sure you inspect the Mic audio jack and the audio port on the stick.
I mean, disconnect the 3 punch/kick and 4 punch/kick LEDs from the FGW completely. I think you might be running into current draw problems and this is a way to test.
I removed the LEDs from the board, and now the 1st and 2nd Punch and Kick buttons are dimly lit.
Hey Techies, I’m decided to go into doing artwork for sticks. I was wondering if you guys could give me some tips on the most cost effective ways to get the stick art printed/plexi so I can keep prices reasonable. My ultimate goal is build custom sticks, so I’d really like to funnel my profits into the tools to do so. Thanks in advance
This is a tough one, you can hand cut, jig saw cut, CNC or laser cut acrylic. Each has its own pros and cons. Mostly the time you spend on each plexy vs the cost of the tools.
Example cutting by hand each plexy would be cheap for tools, but you will spend alot of time on each plexy, and with something like this Time is money.
CNC or laser cutters are the most efficient time wise but the equipment can be pricy ($10 to $15k).
CNC machines can be cheap if you are willing to go the DIY route. You can build one for around $550 and up.
Now for the art. You want a printer that can handle medium weight paper, and something larger than 8.5 × 14 (legal size).
Toner is great for large amounts of B&W copies done quickly, but for full color you would want inkjet, as color laser printers are pricy, slow and their toner packs are expensive.
I’m doing my first real dual-mod, sticking a mad catz 360 fightpad pcb into a PS3 madcatz TE (gotta get ready for ddp on the 30th).
Got everything ready but my inner OCD is preventing me from heating up the iron. I’m curious about how other people connect from the extra board to the button signals. I’m trying to do it cleanly, and potentially in a way that would allow me to disconnect it without desoldering.
I’m guessing that the typical method is to just solder from the addon PCB to the barrier strip. I was thinking of adding a db25 inbetween for removability but was curious if anyone had any more elegant solutions.
What’s your main pcb that you’re using? Almost smells like a not-common-ground issue.
Wood
8761
I have a pretty complicated question about multi-console modding a TvC fightstick. Is it possible to wire up the PCB to to a MC Cthulhu board, as well as the ? If so, how do I do it? My only modding experience has been in replacing the stick, buttons, and installing a Link shaft. I’m really wanting to turn that TvC stick into my main stick, but I have no idea which boards I’m going to need, or how to plan this mod out.
