Nevermind, I answered my own question!
I need a little tip in how to safely clean hot glue blob that manufacturer put on PCB/ cable connections to PCB, thanks!
Darksakul: Aw, I already bought it from sparkfun. Suits me for not comparison shopping. Are there any measurements I could take to check before dropping the cash on parts? I’m considering getting in on “The Link” late Kickstarter deal, for reference.
navetsea: If you can soak the board in rubbing alcohol, that really helps. Just let it soak for a while then peel off.
by you mean rubbing alcohol, is it over the counter alcohol 70% because I’m afraid the 30% is water or should I get higher concentrate from chemical supplier store? if that is the point maybe soaking a piece of cotton pad then press and rest it on top would be the same right, I’m too afraid to soak the entire thing in a potentially conductive liquid while I only need to desolder some cables, especially since I don’t have air compressor to blow dry it afterward.
if I put it inside a ziplock bag and throw it in the freezer for a while, will it harm the PCB or its components? I thought by making it less flexible from being frozen I can peel it off easier, or should I blow it with hot hair dryer instead? I never tried these, and if possible I better listen first rather than putting my PCB into wild experiments
Water only hurts it if you connect power while it’s wet. 70% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) should do fine, so long as there are no perfumes or other strange additives. Using cotton swabs should also work. Freezer probably wouldn’t hurt, but I doubt it would help. Hair dryer would also work.
ETA: Also make sure there are no residues after you clean. Also, IPA is commonly used to clean and dry electronics.
Source:http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?119962-Hot-Glue-amp-How-to-remove-it.
http://blog.makezine.com/2010/10/28/simple-solution-to-removing-hot-glu/
Ahh OK then I will try, thank you Sal.
MSE is a piece of shit in all honesty…
You want to get a better third-party software like AVG AntiVirus or avast! Antivirus. They work much better at preventing viral infection AND malware infestions. A lot of things get past MS’s own security systems… It’s a joke.
The only MS security system I’d use would be the built-in Firewall but even that should be set at least Medium-High. Many complete antivirus and malware solutions have Firewall protection but you have to pay for it and can’t run two Firewall software’s at the same time… It’s one or the other. Same goes for antivirus programs; they can and do conflict if they’re run at the same time UNLESS you can shut down antivirus components from within the programs.
Overall, I prefer avast! Antivirus to AVG but AVG has a neat feature called “Fix Performance” that opens up the program, “QuickTune Peformance.” It can repair a lot of damage done by normal PC useage as well as viruses and malware. Right now, I have most of the AVG features shut off except “Fix Performance” which to my knowledge doesn’t have… The programs complement each other nicely that way and it hasn’t cost me a penny or the level of system damage I suffered when MSE FAILED to stop a Malware attack several months back. I had to reinstall my OS from scratch! Didn’t have to do that after the last attack thanks to avast! and AVG.
I bet five-to-one if you scan your computer with avast! Antivirus or AVG AntiVirus you will probably find “issues” in your computer that MSE allowed to develop. The avast! and AVG programs do NOT create “problems” so that you have to buy them like other programs do. (A lot of Defrag programs and Driver Updaters are programmed to create issues that don’t exist or will “find problems” that “exist” but will not fix them unless you buy the programs first!) They have solid reputations and work very well even at the “freeware” level without subscription. Upgrades are better in the long-run but even the free versions are a lot better than MSE…
I have MalwareBytes installed, too, but I find it to be something of a pathetic joke. It has to be updated manually several times a day unless you have a subscription and frankly all the malware and website attacks are being detected by avast! AntiVirus. I still keep it to doublecheck malware issues.
hyphz
8729
Can the XIM EDGE be used with fighting games? Is it any good?
Uno
8730
It has probably been asked several times before, but does anyone have a diagram for installing a ps360+ pcb in a TVC stick?
I’ve watched the installation video that Focus Attack has up, but the Wii pcb placement is a little different and I’m not sure which wires are going to what.
Thanks in advance!
For FPS on single player is fine, but online or with Fighting games I say skip it.
Yes the PCB is different the procedure is the same as if you were installing it in a PS3 TE or Brawl stick.
Apologies if this is a well-answered question, but finding stuff on here is very tricky now…
Anyway, a work colleague of mine asked if I had any recommendations for good a (USB?) flight controller that would work on the Mac, more specifically for the Kerbal Space Program beta.
I had no idea, but thought that someone on here might know of a good 'plane-stick for the Mac. Cheers.
I recently bought an arcade stick for the PS3. A Madcatz TE Round 1. My R2, L2 and L1 buttons are all not working properly. When I press one of them, the respective button’s turbo light starts glowing and the game I’m playing does not read any input at all. Any ideas?
So I noticed a couple of these fell out of my stick awhile ago and now I can’t screw the top back in. Suggestions?
Macs should work with any Plug-N-Play USB controllers.
Thrustmaster T-Flight Stick X Flight Stick and Mad Catz/Seitek Cyborg F.L.Y 5 both would work.
@Darksakul I shall pass that on, thanks.
@Artist561 I assume you’re talking about a TE? The same thing happened to me (thanks again to @krieg and @Darkasul for helping me out with it) - you’ll need to take the stick completely apart (separating the top and bottom) so you can get to the holes the nuts belong in and stick (glue) them back in…
Uno
8737
@Darksakul, thanks for the info!
If it’s a TE. they’re M4 .7 pitch hex nuts.
Sounds like the Turbo is Stuck. See if you can’t clear it out. Engauge then disengage that button’s Turbo. It may or may not work but it’s worth a try.
The other thing is that the R2 and L2 Or RT and LT on Xbox 360 are the most prone out of all the buttons to have issues.
Those are the nuts that the top panel screws seat into. The glue they use (on my TE MLG sticks anyways) is pretty weak and one or two usually snap off while I’m putting it back together. You’ll need to glue them back into place. I usually just fudge it with a little rubber cement or standard issue Elmers.
The nuts sit in an enclosure that keeps them from turning, you just need the glue to keep them from falling out.
Yeah, it’s a TE. Thanks for the help guys.
