Step 1: Is the LS-DP-RS slider on something other than DP?
Step 2: Put it on DP.
If it’s not that, provide more information.
jtam
7182
holy fuck, I feel like an idiot right now. it was on rs for some reason. thanks
It happens, just be glad it was an easy fix. :tup:
USB is supposed to be twisted pair, so using RCA is already getting shady. For something short inside the stick you can probably get away with a lot, for the cable from the stick to the Xbox I wouldn’t try it. <shrug />
The rule for shielding (and really everything) is that it should only be grounded in one place (or else you do indeed create ground loops). I’ve never been able to find something that actually specifies this, but I think you pretty much have to assume that the shield is grounded on the host’s end of the USB cable. So if you have a “Y” cable you’d connect all of the shields together but only connect the shields to a ground in one place.
Rumler
7185
So I’m going to be running my very first tournament, this weekend. I’ve seen some software used in the past that would, not only generate brackets using random seeding, but would also allow you to enter in the results of each match and it would help you run the tournament.
Does anyone have any recommendations? I’ll be using a Windows laptop.
redsoul
7186
What’s the best $30-ish or under crimping tool for focus attacks .110 quick disconnects? I have all the tools I need to daisy chain except a crimper. Ive been buying precrimped wires for over a year and decided to just do it myself now.
I bought this exact one for doing just that:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160875378708
It may well be a cheaply made one that will eventually fall apart, but to me it feels solid and did a good job of actually crimping.
redsoul
7188
Thanks. Out of curiousity, just what is it to look for in a crimper for those .110 quick disconnects? Is it the size “For Tab 2.8mm 4.8mm Terminal” i should look for?I thought about stopping by an auto zone later just to see if there’s a similar crimper. I’m impatient, like waiting on santa claus when a crimper is the only thing I need.
Yeah waiting for those damn crimpers to show up was a pain.
If you’re looking for them locally, the wire gauge range should probably be enough. The .110 disconnects from Focus Attack can take 18 to 22 gauge I believe (though I actually used 24). Make sure you get crimpers meant for non-insulated, open barrel connectors, and ideally ones that crimp both the conductor and insulation at the same time (the ones I linked crimp both). If ratcheting is an option, do it.
If you’re not sure if they’re for non-insulated open barrel connectors, make sure they look like this:
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/852/crimper.jpg
I’m real sorry to ask again, but someone can help me with the drill size of the holes?
I saw that the 30mm uses the 1 1/8’ drill
how about the 24mm?
Thank you so much and sorry.
I believe Tio is the de-facto standard for off-line brackets. (With Challonge being the on-line tool of choice. There’s also Tonamento but it seems far less popular, and hard to remember the name of.)
I’m new to this specific thread and basically I’ve mostly been a pad player, but a few months ago I started playing with a stick , the WWE one cause my friend made it so could get one for alittle over 40$, just to see how it felt and if I could adapt. I’ve actually gotten pretty used to it and have been thinking about gettin a legit stick, I wanted to get a dual modded stick to kill two birds with one stone but I read the post at the beginning of the thread and it sounds like their not a good idea for tornaments. If anyone could tell me where online or anywhere within jacksonville, FL I can get a good quality stick for ps3 and xbox, or preferably a good dual mod it 'd be appreciated
Anybody have an idea as to whether the extended LS-32 shaft can be used with an LS-40 or not?
Doubt it - the lower half of the shafts are different designs.
But… what happened to your original LS-40 shaft?
Oh, nothing happened; it’s just that it mounts kinda stubby on the wooden case I have it in, and I’m thinking of how I can elongate it without flat-out using another joystick.
I’m not very seasoned at this whole dual modding thing, but I can solder. I have absolutely no clue what to do outside of being given instructions though, so here’s a question:
I have a UMvC3 HRAP VX, a PS3 TE (R1) PCB and an Imp switch (v1). Would it be possible to wire these PCBs in order to obtain a dual mod? From what I’ve seen, the HRAP VX PCB is common ground, but I’m not positive about that, as the source was unreliable… But assuming that’s true, I’m also assuming that I can use these 3 PCBs for a dual mod.
I apologize in advance if this is in the wrong section of the forums.
Yes.
Depending on what you’re doing though, there may be better options if both sticks are working and you’d like to keep it that way.
If you’re trying to dual mod the VX-SA, I’d suggest getting a ChImp.
If you’re trying to dual mod the TE, I’d suggest buying a brawlpad or SFxT pad (any common ground pad really) and using that with your Imp.
That said, you can definitely use those PCBs for the dual mod.
(Upon writing this I realized you might only have the TE PCB and not the entire stick, so you can ignore most of that and focus on “yes”)
Yeah, I only have the PCB and JLF from my R1 TE. A wire was pulled when I was being rough with it from netplay rage (lol). So I’m assuming I could just solder the connections between the VX-SA PCB and TE PCB through the Imp normally then?
And if I could ask an extra question, what kind of wiring should I use?
