Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

IshimaruMakoto · 2012-08-13T16:52:47.000Z

Hi,
I know this is a little lame, but someone can help me with quick connectors?
I don’t know how to make the cable correctly.

Thanks in advance.

Riderkicker · 2012-08-13T19:36:56.000Z

[media=youtube]TYdToPZ9dxQ[/media]

Is what you wanted? It’s kind of easy, just make sure the wire touches the metal part and crimp the plastic so it doesn’t come out. It took me a few tries to figure out how to do it with a $2 crimp tool. If you buy a slightly bigger size, you can crimp the metal enough to fit on the buttons or switches.

gahrling · 2012-08-13T19:52:16.000Z

That video has errors.

First demonstration crimp + crimp tool is correct, but it should not be done while the plastic sheath is on. The sheath goes on after.

Second demonstration uses the wrong tool for the crimp being done. Insulated terminal crimps should be done using a different tool for the optimum result. If using a thin tool then it should be crimped twice.

IshimaruMakoto · 2012-08-13T20:02:14.000Z

Exactly!
I just don’t have this kind of tool, but i think i can do it in some other way.
Thank you for all your help!

Lord_British · 2012-08-13T20:53:38.000Z

Hi,
I know this is a little lame, but someone can help me with quick connectors?
I don’t know how to make the cable correctly.

Thanks in advance.

jdm made a good guide:

Crimping QDs

Because I announced my leave. So I got out of Moderator. Laugh. Looping the wire prevents from slipping out of Quick Disconnect; more wire for more friction and grab. Because not all crimps are secure, especially with cheap Crimpers that most SRK use. Here is how a real crimp for Insulated Quick Disconnects look. http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/1c80ad43.png The Tool I used does the Wire Crimp and Strain Relief Crimp at same time. So in one motion, a secure crimp …

IshimaruMakoto · 2012-08-13T20:58:39.000Z

jdm made a good guide:
Crimping QDs

Thank you so much!
It’s exactly what I needed.
I just have to find this tool in my place… what I think it’s gonna be a lil’ hard.
BUT THANKS ANYWAY!!!

edit:
Ok, find the crimping tool

Phiall · 2012-08-13T22:01:45.000Z

So I fucked up. Modded two HRAP1’s last summer, but never actually finished one of them. Seems I wrote down what wires go in what pin slots just can’t seem to find that anymore.

Here is a picture I took of my situation, the Sanwa JLF wire harness needs to be attached to the board of this HRAP. The slots are numbered from left to right 5-1. What corresponding colors match to these slots? From the wire harness attached from left to right is the colors Black, Green, Yellow, Orange, Red. Thanks for anyone’s help.

Twitter

Mind-control Phiall on Twitter

“Fuck.”

IshimaruMakoto · 2012-08-13T23:24:55.000Z

Sorry buddy, but we can’t see this pic since it’s linked to your twitter account (and that one is locked).

Phiall · 2012-08-14T05:20:16.000Z

Fuck.

There was a thread on the T5, which I intially had to mod that had all the info I needed, however I cannot locate this thread now.

http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss286/WhiteRabbit_88/IMG_3263.jpg

Smashbro29 · 2012-08-14T06:12:34.000Z

So I’ve got a round 1 TE I’d like to mod aesthetically because as of right now it’s stock and the metal at the top and bottom are a little rusted. I know about my options for the top panel and that it’s fairly easy to do but what about the bottom? It’s all… rusty and no one makes replacements bottoms for round 1 TEs, or do they?

Lord_British · 2012-08-14T09:48:19.000Z

Fuck.

There was a thread on the T5, which I intially had to mod that had all the info I needed, however I cannot locate this thread now.

http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss286/WhiteRabbit_88/IMG_3263.jpg

Best I can find is this thread with a pinout for the HRAP3 PCB showing Up, Down, Left, Right, Ground from 5-1:

HRAP3 PCB Front and Back Tech Talk

Does anyone have pics of the front and back of the HRAP3 PCB? I’ve looked around and found nothing. I want to mod my HRAP3 SA with an MC Cuthulu, Chimp, and MAdcatz retro stick PCB so it’ll work on pretty much anything. I want to keep the original Home buton functionality, so I’ll have to wire into the PCB since it doesn’t use a switched button. I need to know what the pin out on the bottom side is. Any help would be appreciated.

That section of the PCB looks awfully similar to the one you posted, but I can’t be 100% sure…

Phiall · 2012-08-14T17:16:42.000Z

Hey thanks man. I should be able to work with that.

Duggish · 2012-08-14T21:28:25.000Z

Keep hearing that when dual modding a ps3 stick to work on 360 as well, there is added input lag when playing on 360? can anyone shed some light onto the circumstances of the situation and how to avoid it? Looking into the fightpad + IMP route…is this going to be an issue?

thanks

gahrling · 2012-08-14T21:37:48.000Z

Keep hearing that when dual modding a ps3 stick to work on 360 as well, there is added input lag when playing on 360? can anyone shed some light onto the circumstances of the situation and how to avoid it? Looking into the fightpad + IMP route…is this going to be an issue?

What idiot said that?

As long as the mod is done correctly then there will be the same amount of lag as the PS3 stick already had, possibly less depending on what motherboards are being used.

Phiall · 2012-08-15T01:55:26.000Z

Update: That totally worked. Thanks again.

CrouchingTiger · 2012-08-15T03:08:50.000Z

Alright, I’ve asked a few specific questions in various specific threads, but now I think I’ve come down to asking some broad questions. Figured I could put it in here. I’ll give plenty of details!

Here’s what I want to do:
Build an arcade stick for my PC (for SSIVAE, MAME, other games, anything) that does the following:
[LIST]
[]uses Sanwa clear buttons (red ones, for what it’s worth)
[]uses just white LEDs to light them
[*]uses an LED controller that is compatible with LEDBlinky software (this rules out all the common ones used here - Sparky, Remora, FGWidget, etc)
[/LIST]
Why this is proving problematic:
The LED controller pretty much has to be this guy - the PAC Drive from http://www.ultimarc.com/pacdrive.html

There are others, but they are pricier and/or bigger, and 16 connections is already more than plenty as it is. This LED controller won’t work with the ArcEye3s, which I was initially considering for their ease of mounting on Sanwa buttons. Plus I don’t need all the features of the ArcEye3s anyway. I was considering the Uila Budget, but I saw a video of the Uila S Flash being installed in a Sanwa and it required grinding off a bit of the plunger in the button to ensure the button could be fully depressed. I didn’t like the sound of that. Finally I was recommended the KNsert, but I see it essentially installs like the Uilas do.

So I guess here are my questions:
Is the KNsert thinner/smaller than the Uila LEDs, or would I need to shave down the plunger in the button? Is the Uila Budget smaller than the Uila S Flash? Or is there some other alternative to light Sanwas that I’ve yet to discover? Help! =)

jdm714 · 2012-08-15T03:21:14.000Z

KNsert.

Frialdey · 2012-08-15T04:10:07.000Z

Ok, so i reccently dropped my stick on accident and now its not working on either 360 or PS3 =(

I have a padhack with a chimpsmd. I look inside and see that when plugged in 360 the red and blue leds are lit, no green… so thinking maybe my padhack got messed up i disconnect the usb wires (red,white,green,black) from the chimpsmd board and connect it to a different usb cable and it works… the 360 padhack lights up and is detected… I then decide to plug in the chimpsmd to my ps3 and see the red and blue led go on but the stick still doesnt work? so i dont know whats going on… any ideas? Could the chimpsmd be damaged?

CrouchingTiger · 2012-08-15T04:22:05.000Z

edit: nevermind

jdm714 · 2012-08-15T04:42:59.000Z

edit: nevermind

I thought that was used to do the custom programming.
So you won’t have two hanging out.