The button config on SF4 PC is wonky. When you configure the stick for PC AE, you have to plug the stick in with Select held down. After that, you just plug it like normal and you’re fine; you only have to do it when changing the stick config.
IIRC it is the TE-S pcb used in the Fightstick Pro series. Different to other PS3 pcb’s as Mad Catz have gone through multiple different board revisions.
Hello to everyone in this forum, I’m a complete newb to LED’s and I want to know everything I will need to buy to have LED buttons and LED Ball working on my current stick, can anyone mention the list of everything I need to buy to make this happen? Thus in addition can anyone tell me how much I’m going to be spending, also I wanted to do this to my current 2nd Edition TE stick for xbox360…thanks. 
Hey guys, I’m not an absolute n00b, but I do have some beginner’s questions.
I’m planning on building a three input arcade stick for PS2, Xbox360/PS3 (Paewang) and if I can swing it, Wii as well by using a third party Wii Classic Controller.
I own an Intec Classic Controller knock off that I’d like to use if I can, which would bring the total of PCBs up to 3.
This presents a worrying problem - The Wiimote expansion port is 3.3v and the others are 5v. If I connect the Intec classic controller I have to 5v, would it still be okay? I have no idea at all if it could stand up to 5v.
I’m also not 100% sure if it’s common ground or where all the signal traces are. I’ve taken a photo of the pcb and labelled what I can, but if you might be able to complete what I don’t have marked that would be really helpful.
I need to know about the Intec Wii Classic Controller today (if it’s common ground, where the remaining inputs I can’t see are, and if it can handle 5v) because I only have 24 hours to return it if it’s not right. Please help if possible.
So I’m trying to make the Player LEDs work on the SFxT Pro PS3 (from a SfxT 360 pad), and soldered to the points indicated. They work in 360 mode fine, but when I plugged it in to the PS3, they did not turn on. Is there somewhere else I can solder too on the PCB?
TJJ
6627
I’m pretty new and have a few questions, I have a Street Fighter x Tekken stick, I already swapped out the default buttons in favor of clear ones (blend in with my artwork), however, the stick seems unresponsive when it comes to inputs, my HRAP however, is more responsive with inputs, I checkek to see if I was doing the inputs incorrectly, but the fact that I can do them just fine on another stick proves that it seems to be the stick itself, should I just get a Sanwa replacement stick or should I got with Seimitsu since the default stick is apparently sanwa
http://www.ultimarc.com/goldleaf.html
I was look at these, and is it possible for them to fit inside either a MadCatz SE or a Hori RAP VX-SA? I’m thinking of trying out those buttons and I want to test them for a while.
TJJ
6629
don’t quote me, as I’m no expert, but I think any button 30 mm should fit.
I think those are 28mm which can fit the button holes, but I dont think it will have enough clearance inside of the stick. Since happ parts cannot fit into a TE a hrap vx-sa maybe if theres no bottom panel.
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#BUTTON_MODELS
I’m building an Arcade Stick from scratch. Meaning that I’m going to buy all the parts I need for the project(already took the research on what to buy), and use a wooden shell to build around it. I already decided that I would go for a Sanwa JLF, but also wanted to know what type of push buttons you recommend, Sanwa or Seimitsu? I’ll be using my Arcade Stick for both Super Street Fighter IV and The King Of Fighters XIII, so I’d like a recommendation on a brand of pushbuttons that would work well with both games. As for the wooden shell, if you have any suggestions on different type of material that would work better, that would be great too.
With the way you’re speaking of things, I might suggest you go with a pre-fab shell to start with.
Also, Sanwa v. Seimitsu is like asking Honda v. Toyota. You’re just going to get lots of different opinions from people who aren’t you. My advice? If you can afford it, buy a set of both and see which ones you like better. Long story short on the differences, Seimitsu’s = Stiffer.
But for serious… if you had to “research” the parts you needed to buy, you would be better off starting by putting together someone else’s pre-fab shell and making your mistakes there before you try to cut your own. After “putting together” (not building) a few of your own sticks, you will then learn what you like and don’t like and can work into your own design.
Thanks SavingPrincess. I don’t have very good wood-working skills, so I do agree with you about buying a pre-fab shell. I’m also going to buy different brands of Joysticks and Buttons to see what combination fits my preferences. I know now that it’s the way to go, so thanks for the advice.
I’ve heard that 360-PS3 converters cause input delay on sticks. Does the same hold true with fightpads?
Hello all.
Okay, so me and a buddy of mine are trying to put together our first arcade stick (so touching right?) Anyway, we’ve built what we want for the physical stick but are having trouble figuring out how to solder the connections. The PCB came from a Madcatz fight pad S.D for PS3, http://www.madcatz.com/sfxtekken/fightpads.html . Do we just have to solder where the buttons were, or do we have to more? Also how should the micro switches be wired? Open or closed?
It’d hold true for any controller you hook up through the converter, because the converter would be inducing the lag.
I got a JLF a few months back, installed (Hori T5 ps2 stick) it, worked “okay” i guess. It was a bit “stiffer” than usual, I figured it would break-in over time, but its been almost 6months and it’s still kinda chunky and a bit mushy-er now, it also stared squeaking.
I checked the microswitches/PCB to see if the sound was coming from there, but it seems fine i think, although as ive said, the switches seem a bit stiffer than usual. The actuator looked really worn out though, i’m guessing that’s the problem.
my question is, is there a chance that i got a shitty pcb/switches, or worse, a bootleg JLF? im only considering the latter cuz i got this from a random HK shop-seller in ebay, it came as a ‘set’ with buttons (buttons seem legit though)…
second, this is the actuator, never touched it before, but wow, its chipped for some reason, now and full of scratches… this is the problem, right? or should i get a new pcb assembly as well?
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1908672/scratuator.jpg
thanks
Hey guys, new guy Asterisk here.
I’ve been lurking around the forums looking for a good stick to upgrade from my Mad Catz SE when I came across CerebraVortex’s hitbox/stick combination called a Combobox shown below:
I was wondering who made that panel as I was thinking about buying a Quanba Q3 DIY Kit from canadianjoysticks and getting the same metal panel but I don’t know where to look. I plan on using that and buying some sanwa buttons and a JFL to build a stick. Does anyone know where I could get one of these? Also what is a good pcb to use if i plan on using it on 360?
blklightning21 made that panel… as far as pcb there are a few that would go you good… but if its only for 360 a madcatz fightpad would be just fine… easy enough to mod…
Alright thank you very much!
