I tried to do some searching for Transparent Semitsus that were snap-ins but sadly, no luck. What if I decided to go for the simple LED mod so that in one press, they’ll just light up on activation? Is there any mod for 30mm Sanwa Snap-Ins?

Also, would there be any need for an additional PCB to program them? If so, what choices do I have?

Uilas will not fit PS-14-K, only PS-14-KN. Next revision is slated to include OBSC and PS-14-K support, though. That could be a while, though.

Also, the Uila with White will work with Sparky, it’s the same PCB, just with a white LED added on. Could just cut or desolder the wire connected. Still common anode, and it works just the same. Might as well just save yourself a few bucks and buy the RGB only if you plan on buying Sparky, since Sparky can’t really utilize White. If you were for a little advanced LED modding, sure, you could get more effects going.

Your only option is to use KNserts (White color LED only). You can connect them to an FGWidget for LED control, but for simple on/off activation, you don’t need a PCB. However, you do need a resistor for each KNsert, unless if you use FGWidget, which has resistors built in.

KNserts = $3 each
FGW LED Controller = $17

Are resistors expensive? Will they be an extra hassle to use compared to using the FGWidget?
I read through the pdf of the FGW and i thought the simple effects are pretty appealing. So I am leaning towards this so far.

Resistors that work in the KNserts are pretty cheap actually. Im pretty sure I could throw some in on the order, but they’d be surface mount soldering; you may not want to deal with that if you havent done it before.

Resistors are not expensive. You can easily get resistors for about 25 cents each online or even a pack of 5 for $2 from Radio Shack.
Spark Fun sells 20 packs for 95 cents. 20 more than you need, but for that price it is the cheapest I seen with out hitting up Digikey or a similar site for resistors.

Thanks Toodles!~

Whatever happen to the e trader function? how do i see reviews of a buyer/seller to know if they’re not a scammer? =/ i havent been on for a long time and the sites a lot different now… i don’t know if this would be the proper place to ask

Srk changed service and that feature disappeared… Peeps still trying to find a way to get it back or something similar…

Alright thanks. It’s probably best to just use the FGW LED Controller . Thanks again for the help :smiley:

does this cable http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200873
work with an rj45 modded cthulu board stick?

No, the pinout in the picture is different from what the Cthulhu expects.

what cable can i buy that will work?

You have to buy one from a modder that is made to work, or make it yourself. The recommended configuration, which is the most common, has a pinout of GABCDEFV on the pins. If you have that, you can easily pick one up from the trading outlet.

I’ve spent the past 2 months trying to find a solution to fixing either of my two broken sticks without replacing the PCB, but to no avail. Now I have a tournament coming up, and still no stick.

If I bought a Paewang Revolution PCB and the appropriate harnesses from Etokki right now, would I be able to easily hook it up inside my HRAP-EX SE and get this show on the road? I just want to get a second opinion on this before I blow $60 on something that may not work.

I’m aware that microphone support is not an option with this PCB, and I’ll have to wait for the PS360+ for that, but I just want a tournament-worthy stick by the end of the month.

Thanks for your help.

If you don’t need a dual modded stick, you can get a Cthulhu for solderless PS3 support. 360 will be a bit tougher, and the Paewang with a harness will probably be one of your easiest solutions, but, will require soldering. Since you have an EX-SE with a regular LS-32, you can use the joystick harness, which is solderless, but you may need to desolder the original wires connected to the joystick. The button harness will require soldering, but it’s pretty much just plug and play at that point.

Hey yall…new to this site.

I have a question, as I’m majorly new to the arcade stick world. I have a HRAP3 SA for the PS3 that I’m interested in modding. Bare with me, as I’m an absolute NOOB.heh. Basically…I’m trying to figure out the whole LED thing, and wanting to get started on it. I’ve been looking at the FGWidget board…which is real cool…and wanted to get a better understanding of how to put it together? for the HRAP 3 SA specifically? I mean, I’ve read the instructions, and know what buttons I gotta get and all of that. Know HOW to solder…I think I’m just mostly confused with the wiring and what to solder to what. I’ve tried to look EVERYWHERE…but couldn’t seem to find a specific answer. I even tried to look on Youtube…and there was a really good tutorial video in three parts…on how to put the board together. but I was left confused from part three of it. Do I have to buy extra wires to connect the FGWidget board? Do I need any other PCBs in addition to the FGWidget? Any help would be appreciated, and I’m sorry if this question may have been asked already. LOL. thanks.

The problem with FGWidget and the HRAP 3 SA PCB is that the HRAP 3 PCB isn’t common ground. You need a common ground PCB to use FGWidget. You can replace the PCB with a Cthulhu if you want, but as far as the stock PCB goes, it needs to be common ground for the FGWidget to read it properly.

But if you have a common ground PCB, yes, you need wires. Solder a wire from the common ground to the Ground of the FGWidget. Then solder a wire from the VCC (Typically the red USB wire) to the VCC of the FGWidget. Then, each button has two prongs, one goes to the common ground, the other goes to the Signal. Connect the Signal wire from the button to the “Jab_in” and connect the LED that’s for the jab button to the “jab_out,” and bsaically repeat this process with every single button and LED.

It is Common Ground, the HRAP 3 SA.

I am working on a stick right now with accent leds, can a led module control button lights as well as accent lights?

The FGWidget could control it via the screensaver or something. Or you could connect multiple LEDs to the same out of the FGWidget, to have the accent light act the same as the controlled LED of the FGWidget.

I read was not. Was always unsure.

Okay, just follow the post above, no need to replace your PCB.