Thanks Shin00bi.
Is this possible???
no I dont have any schematic made. I am really bad at making guides or schematic or anything like it.
I think this is very simple and can easily be don with out any guides . Iāll give a quick example of how i did some.
map the pins of the switch/connectors so all PCBs use the same pins, like
Pin1ground - Pin2 Up - Pin3 Down - Pin4 Right - Pin5 Left - Pin6 LP - Pin7 MP and so on
then follow the same set up to wire the pins to the stick.
and dizzy chain the grounds on the stick and use P1 to connection.
for wiring to the switch. You can cut the connectors off and wire it directly to the switch. or make your own connectors or get a DB25 M to M cable and cut it in half, wire the PCB to the cable and connect cable to the switch.
and hereās one way I used to put the switch in the stick
get a thin shit of metal or plastic by 2ā x 4ā make 4 holes on the sides and one in the middle for the switch.
unscrew the switch from its box and screw it back on to the thin metal.
make a hole on the side or the back of the stick big enough for the switch knob to fit and easy to turn.
now use the 4 holes to screw the metal to the stick with the switch on it, going from inside out.
Also you can do this using a DB15 switch you donāt have to use DB25.
But It could happen where a pin could Die out on the switch, this happened to me once where 3 pins stopped working. with the DB25 you can change pins to any unused pins if need to.
my sticks uses this set up, I use it a lot jumping from system to system easily without plugging and unplugging wires.
Iāll play some VF5 & HF on 360 /xbl and quickly switch to ps3 play some DR on PSN if I see a game on Kaillera I want in, Iāll jump in easily by switching to it and my PS2 is on most of the time I am starting to like HNK a bit, when I cant find games I want to join I am killing time with that.
this set up works for my needs not sure how useful it will be for others, I also have my DC and xbox hooked to it but dont use them much.
I have been using the same stick same set up since 1996 never had much problems with it.
hop that helped
I canāt be 100% sure based off the picture/angle, but see if this pic helps:
If you have a multi-meter, you can confirm ground, and of course, the other prong will be the hot-wire.
Otherwise, itās simply a really safe bet.
(Apologies for the crappy picture. I did it from a break-room computer at work with ms-paint and not at home).
Forgive me for being the newb here. The first person to come up with the switch suggestion was: osotogari
At this point, I havenāt actually done anything with multiple pcbs in one stick. Iām trying to figure out the most efficient, clean, and idiot-proof way to do it. I am mostly a DIYer, with the occasional stick made for a friend or two. Iām trying to expand beyond the typical single-pcb stick because people are becoming more in need of that type of set-up.
For one, from what Iāve read a few times here, is that when you hook up multiple pcbs to one stick, you simply link up the 5v, make sure both PCBs are common ground of course, and ānever plug them both in at the same timeā.
So your method, which you havenāt explained in this thread, is it the above, with a āzip-tieā to prevent dummies from plugging more than one in, or is that method which has a female connector on the outside of the box, which you can plug in various modified-gamepad cords too? If itās the latter, than one could argue the switch-method is more efficient since you never swap out cordsā¦
Aside from your rant, which Iām sure is reasonable, you have not really mentioned which alternate method youāre referring to, other than āour methodā. Could you explain or link to an explanation of your better way?
Edit: Thanks for the additional explanation Osotogari!
:tup:
By neutral you mean when both are connected both will have power running through them from their respective sources, but (of course) the buttons will only be working for the PCB switched to on with the db25.
Toodles:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a316/Ryebreadstick/Forums/2pcb.jpg
Pardon the crude image - is this basically what youāre asking me to do? Since I will be using a PSX controller, I canāt use the diode method (according to your instructions). So, assuming the buttons are all grounded properly and everything, I just bridge the grounds and power from each pcb, and add a switch in between the power sources and the pcb to select which gets powerā¦?
Also, since the PSX pcb is < 5v and the USB is 5v, will there be a problem when I select PSX power? And vice versa - will the PSX pcb have issues with taking 5 volts when I select USB power?
And basically, in the end, itāll LOOK like Iām using a switch-box, but Iām not, for the sake of avoiding a āratās nestā inside my controller if I add more PCBs down the line.
One more question. If the buttons are already grounded to one PCB, and Iām using the above method, I only have to bridge the power and ground from the new PCB to the existing grounded PCB for it to be properly groundedā¦ right?
I hope Iām making sense.
Thanks again for all of your guysā help.
Would just like to say that, given the information everyone gave me, I was able to successfully add a PSX PCB to my HRAP3. Thank you all very much 
Hey krost iāll apreciate if you could esplain how finally do it , with pics better( HRAP 3 PCBā¦), you the first i know that add a psx pcb in a HRAP3 and i want to do the same.
I wonder If there is anyway to do this with a 360 controller and a PSX controller. Perhaps using that gamestop wired controller? Doesnt that have a common ground?
Some of the mat catz/gamestop wired controllers have common grounds. Also, that whacky mad catz arcade stick has common grounds.
So yes, you can do it.
I bought a couple from the Online Computer Geeks store. They were $10 a piece.
Iāve already hacked one. IDK while people keep the plastic analog sticks attached, even partially. They pop right off, and PCB can be rather low-profile if you do it right.
i would like to be the second to attempt this since adapters are expensive as hell and direct wiring reduces the changes of delayed input 
As soon as I finish the 100 things I have to do, Iāll draw up a HRAP3 specific schematic on how to add a PSX (or any PCB for that matter).
I look forward to this schematic.
I am in no hurry to make a multi-stick as of yet, but itās definitely on my to-do list for the future (maybe Spring time, or Summer. Whenever ST HDR comes out. I may aim for having a 4-pcb stick for that time!)
This is an awesome topic.
The various ideas and schematics given here are not my cup of tea. Granted, the 2 PCBs have to be powered at the same time, but connecting the PS2 cord will underpower the USB and reciprocally, connecting the USB will overpower the PS2 PCB. In order to cleanly implement the multiPCB thing, you need to add a small board which will output 2 voltages +3,3 V and +5 V from either 3.3 or 5 V. A Zener diode could do a small step-down voltage conversion but Iām still unsure how to do it in general.
Sure. And since weāre not using USB when that happens, why is that a bad thing? It is enough to make sure it doesnāt pull power from the pulled-high input lines, which is all we really care about.
We donāt need it to RUN, just not leech power from the inputs. Unless youāre going to tell me that a device that is made to run from 5v is somehow going to be damaged if connected to a 3.3v source.
While I canāt say for certain that they are truly specāed for 5v operation, I can say with certainty that they operate from 5v sources reliably. Every single PSX->USB, PSX->Xbox, PSX->Saturn, PSX->SNES, PSX->NeoGeo, fuck it, EVERY PSX converter powers the PSX pad with 5v (POSSIBLE exception for some GameCube converters, since it does have a 3.3v line, but every one Iāve taken apart powers the pad from the 5v line.)
Again, we donāt even need the PSX to work properly at that point, just not fry, and not leech power from the inputs.
Sure, you could do that, but Iām not sure what youād gain by doing so.
BTW, any diode will cause a voltage drop; Zeners are slightly more expensive, and are used as a protection from too much voltage, not so much for dropping voltage. Using them for voltage dropping means you could have used normal cheap diodes instead.
If youāre serious about building something like this yourself, for upping the 3.3v to 5v, you should look into something like the MAX751 and related chips that do the job pretty nicely in an 8 pin DIP, with only a few extra components needed. It wouldnāt surprise me if Maxim-IC had chips specifically for outputting 3.3v and 5v from a varied input source.
I didnāt say it would damage it. My only concern was that powering with +3.3 V a +5 V device wonāt do much regarding the current drawn with the inputs (i.e. I thought the PCB would act as if unpowered). Iām glad to see that pads PCBs are tolerant enough to do that sort of thing.
Ah ! Very good to know.
In that case, the schematic given by TIMOE just works, I agree. Magic !
I said Zener to get a +1,7 V voltage drop, the other normal diodes have a lower forward voltage (+0,3 V for germanium or +0,7 V for silicium IIRC - donāt quote me on that though) thatās why I discarded them.
I was not really serious about that but someone asked me if I could dual PCB (new verb !) his HRAP3 and thought āeasy !ā. Then, after reading this thread and what solutions other SRK members found out, I wasnāt so sure.
Anyway, thanks for enlighting me, itās always a pleasure to read these forums with knowledgeable people like you, willing to share !
EDIT: Shoo, could you add this thread to the Essential Joystick thread ? I think it deserves to be there. Thx
Hey, my Korean PSX Dual Shock is 3.48 Volts, not 3.3V, any problem with this when i will ad the PCB to the HRAP 3?
Also Gound and +v seems to be changed in the buttons respect to the PSX pad pic.
Nope, should work fine.
Going back to what toodles said about the converters, your saying that Iām getting a constant +5v from my Total Control Plus?
I was thinking about putting a 5v step up converter chip in my custom happ case, because of the P360 thatās in there right now. Itās having trouble reading diagonals, so Iām trying to narrow down what the solution to the problem may. If Iām getting the 5v from the converter then Iām not going to bother putting in the step up chip
Another question that I have is Iām thinking about doing a multi-pcb set up in my HRAP 2 with an Xbox 360 pcb. Should I A) wire the Xbox pcb with the HRAP pcb, or B) scrapping the HRAP pcb and put in a DS pcb with the Xbox pcb? The HRAP pcb looks weird because it has seperate grounds for the buttons and a single ground for the Sanwa pcb.
Both are problems easily solved with a multimeter.
Every converter Iāve seen does, but its very easy to verify that specific one. Open up your stick, set a multimeter for voltage (some setting just over 5 volts. On mine, itād be 20 volts), put the black probe on the black ground wire coming from the p360, put the red probe on the red wire coming from the p360. Voltage on the multimeter is the voltage the p360 is receiving.
HRAP 2 definitely uses a common ground. If you use a multimeter to check the resistance between wires, you should find one on each button that connects to one of each pair of wires. There are two wires going to each button, but the ground are all connected on the PCB.
If it were me, Iād use the HRAP 2 pcb.